Wednesday, July 23, 2008

But the label says...

I thought I would spend a couple of posts deciphering a couple of the statements made on many cosmetic labels.

The first on deck: Non-Comedogenic.

Ahh, the golden child of almost every acne product and cosmetic on the market. Place this beauty on the label to let everyone know that the ingredients will not clog pores and produce acne (note the sarcasm).
The problem with this claim is that it is not defined or regulated by the FDA. It should mean that a product or ingredient does not clog pores, but does it really? The FDA does not provide a list of comedogenic ingredients on their website but does suggest that you stay away from pore clogging ingredients. Confusing.

Since there is no official list, the FDA does not regulate the claim of non-comedogenicy. The result is that any product can make this claim without fear that the FDA will step in.
Take the following product description and ingredient list:


Moisturizer with Dead Sea Minerals is a rich, ultra-hydrating, non-comedogenic moisturizer. Daily use helps improve skin texture and elasticity by dramatically improving skin´s ability to retain moisture. Formulated for dry to normal skin.

Directions: Wash face with an AFA Cleanser. Apply Moisturizer sparingly. Use of a daily sunscreen is recommended. Store at room temperature. No animal testing.





Ingredients: Water, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Purine, Acidified Amino Acid, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Dead Sea Minerals, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

























Now, this moisturizer states that it is non-comedogentic, yet one of the ingredients, Isopropyl Palmitate, is a penetrating oil which is shunned by many an esthetician (myself included) and dermatologists for it's acne inducing properties. Another ingredient to note at the top of the list is Petrolatum, or more commonly known, mineral oil. While this is not an ingredient that can physically clog a pore, it is occlusive and can trap other problematic ingredients (like isopropyl palmatate) on the skin. So, will this moisturizer cause a breakout? Maybe, maybe not. Would I go slathering it on my skin? Why risk it?

Just like everything else in life, you can't always believe what you read. While there is no official list by the FDA, you can find a great reference at Zerozits. Use this list to help you avoid the most problematic ingredients found in cosmetic products. You will be glad you did.

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