Thank you Dr. Oz and Oprah!!

Finally, some detailed info on what to look for in skincare products and the role that nutrition, diet and stress play in the health of our skin. The only problem I had with the program was the inclusion of Paula Begoun. She tauts herself as a "skin care expert", but as far as I can tell she is a former makeup artist and not an esthetician, physician or nurse. I won't go into my problems with her recommendations but there is an interesting review of her book on e-opinions which I tend to agree.

Dr. Oz and Dr. Susan Evans speak to the benefits of antioxidants, niacin, alpha hydroxy acids and sunscreens for maintaining the skin. They also analyzed the skin using a uv and polarized light machine to reveal the true damage underneath the skin. I use a similar device in my studio, although I cannot take a picture to show my clients the results (hopefully someday soon though!).

If you didn't have the chance to see the show go to oprah.com for more detailed info about the show.

Till next time!

Stop Wasting Your Money.... Mary Kay

Times are tough.

With that being said, I thought I would spend a little time blogging about how you can get more bang for your buck, regarding your skin care products.

Being an esthetician for almost 5 years, I have many of my customers tauting the wonders of Mary Kay products. Some of them sell the products themselves, others have friends or other representatives selling to them. Listen to me very carefully: YOU ARE WASTING YOUR MONEY!! Even I was surprised and how bare the ingredient decks are!

Now if you want a product that looks pretty, smells nice and feels rich and creamy, by all means keep using Mary Kay and stop reading this blog now. If you want the TRUTH about the Mary Kay ingredients and their effectiveness please keep reading.

STEP 1. Ingredients.
Let me tell you, finding Mary Kay's ingredient decks online is no easy task. The company does not list the ingredients on their websites (which should be a huge red flag, especially for such a large company!). I mean, how are you supposed to know if something works if you can't see the ingredients? I understand the need to protect proprietary formulas, but at least give us a hint at what is in the product. I did manage to find a couple listings of the ingredient decks taken straight from the box on an independent site. Below are the ingredient decks with the function of each ingredient plus any known cancer, allergen or irritant risks. I highlighted any ingredient with a moderate to high risk for irritation and cancer and I did not include any cancer risks that were found in vitro. All ingredients were found at the cosmetics database.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
CANCER,
Possible Irritant
FILLER, BULKING AGENTS ETC

Mary Kay® TimeWise® Age-Fighting Moisturizer

Description (as written on the box): Suitable for sensitive skin. Oil- and fragrance-free. Non-comedogenic. Timewise® Age-Fighting Moistuirizer firms, softens and reduces the appearance of fine lines. Proven to hydrate for up to 10 hours.

NORMAL TO DRY

Ingredients: Water, glycerin (humectant), C12-15 alkyl benzoate (emolient, anti microbial) , cettearyl alcohol (surfactant, foam enhancer), isostearyl alcohol (emolient, viscocity increasing agent), triethanolamine (ph adjuster, CANCER, TOXIC) hydrogenated lecithin (surfactant, emulsifying agent), behenyl alcohol (Binder; Emulsion Stabilizer; Viscosity Increasing Agent), propylene glycol (Fragrance Ingredient; Humectant, CANCER, possible IRRITANT)
dimethicone (Occlusive; Skin Protectant), bis-diglyceryl polyacladipate-2(Emollient), ceteareth-20 (Cleansing Agent; Surfactant, Organ system toxicity especially in products used around eyes, mouth, or lips), linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloridephosphate (anti-static agent), silica (Abrasive; Absorbent; Anticaking Agent; Bulking Agent; Opacifying Agent; Suspending Agent), carbomer (stabilizer), diazolidinyl urea (preservative, CANCER, HUMAN SKIN TOXICANT), lauramine oxide (fragrance, surfactant, sense organ effects at very low doses), disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent, CANCER), betaine (humectant), glyceryl polyacrylate (film former), methylparaben (preservative, CANCER, ALLERGEN, possible IRRITANT), sodium PCA (humectant), C9-15 alkyl phosphate (cleansing agent, surfactant), tocopheryl acetate (antioxidant), sorbitol (humectant, fragrence), propylparaben (preservative, ALLERGEN), serine (amino acid), threonine (amino acid), proline (amino acid), arginine (amino acid), glycine (amino acid), alanine (amino acid), lysine (amino acid), glutamic acid (humectant), thermus themophillus ferment (I am not quite sure what this ingredient is).

Green means go and red means STOP, right?

This moisturizer will give your skin some hydration, but as far as the age-fighting capabilities, I think the Cancer causing ingredients might make that difficult. Also, any of the good ingredients, located on them bottom of the deck, are so clouded by emulsifiers, bulking agents, and emollients that they will probably never reach your skin!!

Maybe the other formula will be better.

COMBINATION TO OILY

Ingredients: Water, glycerin (humectant), isododecane (solvent, emollient), dimethicone (Occlusive; Skin Protectant), propylene glycol (Fragrance Ingredient; Humectant, CANCER, IRRITANT), betaine (humectant), ethylene/acrilic acid copolymer (binder, film former), boron nitride (absorbent), ammonium acrloyl-dimethyltaurate/VP copolymer (Viscosity Increasing Agent), PEG-12 dimethicone (Skin Conditioning agent), polyacrylamide (binder, Film Former), phenoxyethanol (preservative, sense organ effects at very low doses), C13-14 isoparaffin (emollient), lauramine oxide (fragrance, surfactant, sense organ effects at very low doses), disodium EDTA (Chelating Agent, CANCER), methylparaben (preservative, CANCER, ALLERGEN, IRRITANT), triethanolamine (ph adjuster, CANCER CAUSING, TOXIC), C9-15 alkyl phosphate (cleansing agent, surfactant), DMDM hydantoin (preservative, ALLERGEN), tocopheryl acetate (antioxidant), laureth-7 (surfactant, emulsifying agent), linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium chloride phosphate (anti-static agent), sodium PCA (humectant), sorbitol (humectant, fragrence), serine (amino acid), thermus thermophillus ferment, threonine (amino acid), proline (amino acid), arginine (amino acid), glycine (amino acid), alanine (amino acid), lysine (amino acid), glutamic acid (humectant)

Again, a few different ingredients with the same results. Oh, and it also states that it is for Sensitive skin? With all those irritants and allergens I wouldn't put it on my face!! Plus, there are 2 ingredients that are stated as being film formers. Really?!!

In comparison lets look at Osmosis' Quench Moisturizer.

Description:

This product contains natural moisturizing factors and lipids found naturally in the skin to create a light feeling, intensely hydrating, moisturizer.

Quench contains high doses of hyaluronic acid which provides a wonderful moisturizing effect. It also uses Argirilene for firming and niacinamide which is proven to help restore the skin's barrier and feed the skin with its own natural moisturizing factors.

Ingredients:
Purified Water, Shea Butter (Moisturizer, Emollient, Anti inflammatory), Niacinamide (smoothing, Circulation), Organic Jojoba oil (emollient), Cetyl Palmitate (Occlusive, emollient possible IRRITANT), Sorbitan Palmitate (Emulsifying Agent), Sorbitan Olivate (emulsifying agent), Glycerin (humectant), Hyaluronic Acid (moisturizing, humectant), Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 (Natural Argirilene)(Humectant), Cholesteryl Stearate (Liquid Crystals)(emollient), Corn Silk (skin Conditioning), Squalene (emolient), Hyaluronic Acid (humectant), L-Sodium PCA (humectant), Japanese Honeysuckle (preservative), Essential Oil Blend (preservative, natural fragrance).

Do I even need to say anything? One ingredient which may be a possible irritant. Plus the description itself states the key ingredients of the product. Impressive.

2. VALUE

Without looking at the ingredients, you might say that Mary Kay has a better price point.

TimeWise: $22 for 3.3 oz. or $6.67 / oz

Quench: $30 for 1 oz.

However you have to remember that with all the emulsifiers, binders and other assorted fillers, the few good ingredients do not reach the skin. In fact, all the potential cancer causing and irritation inducing agents are probably going to make your skin worse. Also, you have to look at how much of the product you are using in each application. I have used Mary Kay (many moons ago, before knew better). Let me tell you that I used a lot more than I use of Osmosis. Osmosis recommends 1-2 pumps of the product which will last you about 2 months.

Osmosis also contains cutting edge ingredients like Hyaluronic Acid, Cholesteryl Stearate (Liquid Crystals), Acetyl Hexapeptide-3 and Niacinamide, which are noticeably absent from the Mary Kay formula. These ingredients help not only with hydration but improvement in firmness, wrinkles and suppleness of the skin.

Now that is age fighting!

Can I interest you in a sandblasting today?

That's crazy! No one in their right mind would agree to that type of treatment!

Ever had traditional Microdermabrasion?

Yes? Welcome to the world of sandblasting.

Microdermabrasion has always confused me. What skin is so bad that you have to bombard it with abrasive crystals for it to look good and remain healthy? Supporters of this treatment claim that it is an even exfoliation which can improve the appearance of wrinkles, acne scarring, and pigmentation. Okay, let's look at these claims individually.

Wrinkles

Claim: Microdermabrasion will reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

True - Kind of
This is true in the same way that getting punched in the mouth will give you Angelina Jolie lips without the use of collagen. What happens when you get punched, or scrape yourself? You swell. The same thing happens when you over scrub your skin. It gets nice and plump, but as soon as the swelling goes down, you are right back where you started. You wouldn't go around punching yourself in the face if you wanted bigger lips, so why would you blast or rub your skin raw with microdermabrasion?

Acne Scarring

Claim: Microdermabrasion can improve the appearance of acne scarring.

Probably not

Microdermabrasion is just not effective on old acne scars. A scar is a fibrous tissue that does not have the same function as the surrounding skin. Scrubbing it really hard will not change that. It may smooth out the skin slightly, but there will not be a significant improvement.

Hyperpigmentation (Brown Spots, Sun Spots)

Claim: Microdermabrasion will help lighten brown spots.

May have some effect but NOT RECOMMENDED for darker skin types!!!

Microdermabrasion exfoliates the skin. so for superficial pigmentation it can help to lighten those pesky spots, but will have little if any effect on deeper or really dark pigmentation. If fact, microdermabrastion may make you dreaded dark spots worse!!! This is especially a concern for anyone with more pigment in his or her skin. The more color, the more chance that the skin could pigment. Even if you go into the treatment without spots you could come back out with them! The microdermabrasion can cause inflammation which can stimulate melenin production in the skin. Talk about not being worth it!


So what's a girl or guy to do?

Ultrasonic (or wet) Microdermabration

Now even thought this method sounds the same, it is very different.

An ultrasonic microdermabrasion machine is used with a wet medium on the skin so the blade (sounds scarrier than it its) never makes contact with bare skin. The blade vibrates at about 20,000 -28,000 times per second and spins water molecules on the skin, loosening dead skin without trauma or irritation.

These new machines can also kill bacteria on the surface (fantastic for acne!) and also penetrate product deeper into the skin. The result is clearer, smoother skin (even better when you do it in a series)! Who doesn't want that!

I have had an opportunity to see what these Ultrasonic Microdermabrasion machines can do and am thoroughly impressed. So much so, that I decided to purchase one for my skin care studio. It will be here by the end of the week, so if you live near Elmhurst give me a call and set up an appointment.

Essential Skin and Beauty
151 N. York St.
Suite 5N
Elmhurst, IL 60133
630-832-7546

http://www.essentialskinandbeauty.com

The evaluation of aluminum oxide crystal microdermabrasion for photodamage.

Author: Tan MH; Spencer JM; Pires LM; Ajmeri J; Skover G

Author affiliation: Department of Dermatology, Mount Sinai School of Medicine, New York University, New York, New York 10029, USA.

Publication date & source: 2001.11, Dermatol Surg, 27(11):943-9

Shop Essential Skin & Beauty

Hi all!
I have a shopping site up and running. There are some great deals on Mineral Makeup going on right now! Also, if you want to keep a summer glow all year round, check out the sunless tanners.
The 3 piece kit is a great value but quantities are limited!

www.shop.essentialskinandbeauty.com

Dietary Help for Acne & Rosacea

Hi all!
Here is an interesting article I received from Osmosis on help for the internal causes of acne and rosacea. Could be of great help for those suffering from these conditions. Remember: we are what we eat!!

DIETARY AND LIFESTYLE GUIDELINES FOR ROSACEA AND ACNE

Philosophy

There is still debate over whether or not diet is related to acne and/or rosacea in the medical community. The misleading aspect of this is that often no one food/food group is responsible. For example, it has been stated that chocolate may cause acne. I am sure many people have cut out chocolate and discovered that it did not really help in most cases. It is not the chocolate that is specifically related to the acne but rather a generally poor dietary pattern that exacerbates the condition. The connection is related many times to Candida overgrowth, systemic inflammation causing testosterone surges and/or hormone imbalances and an overall tendency for the system to be acidic which promotes bacteria growth and suppresses our immune system. In addition, poor dietary habits cause the lining of the digestive tract to become damaged including the loss of critical numbers of the good bacteria (normal flora). Also, we often have a difficult time absorbing nutrients and expelling toxins from our small and large bowel due to poorly digested and/or damaging foods. Why do some have problems and others with similar or worse diet/lifestyles do fine? Mostly it is their genetic makeup. We are born with an inherent ability to process and remove toxins, excess calories, etc and some people are born with “better genes” than others in that regard.

Strategies

1) Everyone should probably treat Candida because it is estimated that 80% of the population has symptoms related to Candida overgrowth.

2) While treating Candida, probiotics should be used for several months to restore the good bacteria.

3) Good vitamin and mineral supplementation is important.

4) 1-3 Colonics and maybe even one a year as maintenance is a good idea. This is especially true if you are a big meat and dairy eater.

5) Caffeine should be avoided because it vaso-constricts which starves the skin.

6) Alcohol, soft drinks and simple sugars should be avoided because they promote Candida, damage good bacteria and acidify the body.

7) Dietary strategies, besides the general categories (listed above) that should be avoided, involve better food management. Basically, you want to think about how you mix food types at meals because this will significantly help your body process the food correctly:

a. Do not combine carbohydrates/sugars with proteins at the same meal because they digest differently and will not be digested well in combination.

b. Try to avoid processed foods, artificial additives, white flour, and hydrogenated oils because they promote inflammation/acidification.

c. Do not consume excessive dairy because it is acid and mucous-forming.

d. Drink water as much as possible.

Summary

Our country is killing itself with our current dietary and lifestyle habits. Most disease, including skin diseases, are directly related to the systemic effects from our habits. We know that changing your diet is a very difficult task so following some of these protocols is better than not following any.

But the label says...

I thought I would spend a couple of posts deciphering a couple of the statements made on many cosmetic labels.

The first on deck: Non-Comedogenic.

Ahh, the golden child of almost every acne product and cosmetic on the market. Place this beauty on the label to let everyone know that the ingredients will not clog pores and produce acne (note the sarcasm).
The problem with this claim is that it is not defined or regulated by the FDA. It should mean that a product or ingredient does not clog pores, but does it really? The FDA does not provide a list of comedogenic ingredients on their website but does suggest that you stay away from pore clogging ingredients. Confusing.

Since there is no official list, the FDA does not regulate the claim of non-comedogenicy. The result is that any product can make this claim without fear that the FDA will step in.
Take the following product description and ingredient list:

	Moisturizer with Dead Sea Minerals is a rich, ultra-hydrating, non-comedogenic moisturizer. Daily use helps improve skin texture and elasticity by dramatically improving skin´s ability to retain moisture. Formulated for dry to normal skin. Directions: Wash face with an AFA Cleanser. Apply Moisturizer sparingly. Use of a daily sunscreen is recommended. Store at room temperature. No animal testing.
		Ingredients: Water, Petrolatum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Purine, Acidified Amino Acid, L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Dead Sea Minerals, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben.

Now, this moisturizer states that it is non-comedogentic, yet one of the ingredients, Isopropyl Palmitate, is a penetrating oil which is shunned by many an esthetician (myself included) and dermatologists for it's acne inducing properties. Another ingredient to note at the top of the list is Petrolatum, or more commonly known, mineral oil. While this is not an ingredient that can physically clog a pore, it is occlusive and can trap other problematic ingredients (like isopropyl palmatate) on the skin. So, will this moisturizer cause a breakout? Maybe, maybe not. Would I go slathering it on my skin? Why risk it?

Just like everything else in life, you can't always believe what you read. While there is no official list by the FDA, you can find a great reference at Zerozits. Use this list to help you avoid the most problematic ingredients found in cosmetic products. You will be glad you did.

Base Tan Insanity

I have been perusing the Internet and have actually found several articles touting the benefits of developing some "color" before going out into the sun. (Check out this doozy of an article) For me this way of thinking is tantamount to shooting yourself in the face if you have a headache. Sure, your head is no longer throbbing, but now you have a whole new set of problems.

Where did the idea of the "base" tan as a protective mechanism come from?

Many of the supporters of this idea believe that if you gradually stimulate the melanin production in the skin it will offer a natural barrier against the suns harmful rays. Technically, this is correct. Melanin is the pigment which gives skin & hair it's natural color. It also absorbs some (not all) UV rays to protect our skin from DNA damage. Therefore, darker skinned individuals have more natural protection than their pale counterparts. When fair skin is exposed to UV rays it signals the melanocytes to produce more melanin turning the skin darker to protect it from further damage. So it stands to reason that the more melanin production we stimulate, the better off we will be when we step out into the sun.

The problem with this way of thinking is the way the melanin is stimulated. Whether it is the local tanning salon or laying out in your backyard, the culprit is the same: UV rays. Plain and simple, UV rays are RADIATION! UV radiation can cause DNA damage which in turn can lead to skin cancer, premature aging, suppression of the immune system, and cataracts. (Don't believe me? Check out what the EPA has to say.) This UV damage occurs even if we don't burn. That base tan that you so carefully developed can cause just as much damage to your skin over time as one bad sunburn (remember, sun damage is cumulative). And what about the protective factor of all that melanin production? Well it equates to about an SPF of a 3 or 4, which will protect you for about as long as it take you to walk from the tanning salon to your car in the parking lot!

Basically, what I am saying is that no tan is a good tan. Any UV radiation that is causing a change in the skin's color is causing damage to the skin.

Embrace your paleness, flaunt your natural pallor, just say NO to the sun!

Well, if you can't handle blinding people in the summer with your white skin, at least use a self-tanner or bronzer. Oh, and don't forget to layer on the sunscreen after the application, since most don't contain any SPF.

Until next time!

Sunscreen Updates

Hi all!

I just came across an interesting info about my favorite Anti-aging product of all time: Sunscreen.
You can find the full article on Webmd.

1. Do some sunscreen ingredients and products really work better than others?

"A definite yes," says Rebecca Sutton, PhD, a staff scientist for the EWG and an author of the report.

Two ingredients favored by EWG scientists are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, for two reasons, Sutton says. "They protect us over this broad range of ultraviolet A (UVA) and UVB." And these ingredients don't tend to break down as easily as other sunscreen ingredients, according to the EWG.

UVB rays cause sunburn and skin cancer; UVA rays cause aging and likely skin cancer. Because both cause damage to the skin, Sutton says, it's important to pick a sunscreen with broad spectrum protection that shields out both types of rays.

Many active ingredients in sunscreens break down in the sun, wiping out protection, according to the report. And some sunscreens only provide protection against ultraviolet B.

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are classified by experts as physical blockers, which work by reflecting rays away from the skin. Other sunscreen ingredients, such as oxybenzone, are chemical blockers, which work by absorbing rays and preventing them from penetrating.

"The physical blocking sunscreens are by far the better sunscreens vs. the chemical sunscreens," says Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, a dermatologist in Danville, Calif.

Newer sunscreen formulas include the ingredients avobenzone and Mexoryl SX. "These are considered improvements because they provide excellent UVA and UVB protection," says Dina Began, MD, a physician at Montefiore Medical Center and assistant professor of medicine at Albert Einstein College of Medicine in New York.

Mexoryl (ecamsule), a UVA blocker approved in 2006 by the FDA, was judged as effective in a report on the sunscreen ingredient in a study published in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery in 2007.

But the EWG found in its literature search that as much as 40% of Mexoryl can degrade within two hours, Sutton says.

Another new sunscreen addition, Helioplex, is a stabilizer used in sunscreens that combine avobenzone (a UVA sunscreen) and oxybenzone (a sunscreen that blocks UVB and some UVA). While they may be more stable, Helioplex products trigger the same concerns from EWG scientists as do other chemical blockers -- the risk of upsetting hormonal balance, Sutton says.

The bottom line: Physical blockers work better on both UVA and UVB rays, according to experts interviewed by WebMD.

I have always favored physical blocks over chemical sunscreen. I only carry physical suncreens at my studio because many of my customers (and myself) are sensitive to them. I have also found if I am not extremely careful about reapplying chemical screens, I will end up with a nasty burn. This article definitely reinforces my views and I hope it answers some of your questions as well. Be sure to follow the link at the beginning of this post to check out the rest of the article for other helpful tips!

You've got great skin!

Do you know what group of people have the worst skin care routines?

People with great skin.

Wha??

That's right. And no, I am not crazy.

Think of it this way. If you never had acne, excessively oily or dry skin, sensitivities, breakouts, or any other condition that has caused you to worry about what you saw in the mirror, would you think twice about your skin?

Probably not.

You would most likely ignore your skin until one of these conditions appeared. It's the same way with those genetically blessed individuals who haven't exercised a day in their lives, can live on a diet of cheeseburgers and milkshakes, yet manage to maintain perfectly toned physiques.

So, if you are one of these genetic freaks (can you tell I'm a wee-bit jealous?), you don't have to worry about your skin, right? Wrong. In fact, you should be more worried.

Why? Well, lets look at our perfect-body-without-the-sweat counterparts. Let's call her Polly Perfect (jealousy is an ugly thing). The age range for Polly is usually between 17 & 29. At this stage of the game, her metabolism is fired up and her body can handle the extra calories, fat and artificial ingredients consumed. It isn't until about age 30, when her metabolism slows down, that Polly Perfect starts noticing she is packing on the pounds.

What happens next?

Full blown panic. Just think of how much easier Polly's life would have been had she just started to develop good habits earlier!

A person (lets call her Patty) with perfect skin is no different. For years, Patty has never thought twice about her skin and it has been just fine. Suddenly, Patty reaches her 30's and her face has fallen to the floor, brown spots have mysteriously appeared, and her skin has the texture of shoe leather. Patty picks up the phone and dials the number to her friendly neighborhood esthetician and makes an appointment.

The following is an example of the conversation that follows:

Esthetician: What are your concerns?

Patty: I have been noticing some wrinkles, brown spots and my skin is not as smooth as it used to be. I have never had a problem with my skin, before!

Esthetician: Well, what do you use at home?

Patty: Um, soap and water. Oh, and sometimes lotion.

Esthetician: Do you use a sunscreen?

Patty: Only in the summer when, I am out in the sun.

Esthetician: (Sigh)

What follows is usually a laundry list of treatments, home-care and lifestyle changes aimed at correcting Patty's concerns. These do not come cheap. Remember: Prevention is always cheaper and more effective than correction. Patty will either commit to change and hopefully improve her skin (remember there are no guarantees), or be so overwhelmed, chuck the whole idea, and continue on her journey to look like a snake-skin handbag.

So what do you do? Recognize that just like everything else in life, neglect is not the answer!

In order to avoid Patty's fate follow these simple skin care tips:

1. Use a good cleanser. Even if you don't wear makeup everybody's skin is exposed to pollutants and needs a good cleaning at least once a day (preferably at night). Look for a non-irritating, non-drying formula. If your skin is dry and tight after washing, the cleanser is too harsh.
   
2. Wear sunscreen!!! This is my number one anti-aging product. Unless you live in a cave, you need sunscreen year round.
3. Load up on Antioxidants. Use a topical antioxidant serum (preferably liposome coated) daily and eat fresh fruit and vegetables. Dark berries, spinach & teas are especially high in antioxidants and can boost your skin's natural spf!
   

These aren't the answers to all your skin care problems, but they will put you on the right track!

Until next time!

I'm so Sensitive

I thought I would start my blogging career off by addressing one of the concerns almost everyone who works in the skin care field has heard about a billion times: Sensitive Skin.

Watch your esthetitican the next time you utter these words,
"I have sensitive skin."
Chances are that your esthetician will be fighting the urge to roll her eyes or take a massive sigh. (But not me... I'm an educator.)

The reason: Very few people actually have sensitive skin.


"But my skin gets red, itchy, flaky, etc. when I use glycolic, salicylic, (insert your ingredient or product here)."


Now I am not saying that you cannot be sensitive TO a certain product or ingredient, but the actual number of people with truly sensitive skin in rather small. Instead of treating our skin like a hormonal teenager which erupts in every situation like Mount St. Helens, lets look at it like my Dad (stay with me here).

My Dad has an abnormally long fuse. Seriously, it takes a lot to get him angry. When he was teaching me how to drive, I almost ran our car into a baseball field and he didn't get upset, only a little annoyed at my lack of driving skills. However, when he reaches his breaking point you know it. His face gets really red and steam starts to come out of his ears (I really think I saw it once!).

Our skin is the same way (minus the steam). It is constantly bombarded with heat, cold, dry air, humidity, medications, etc. All these factors cause our skin to fall out of it's natural balance state and become dry or dehydrated (or both). Top this already stressed skin with a product that may be too exfoliating or too active and... BAM! Redness, flakiness, irritation and inflammation.

If we take a step back and properly care for our skin so that it remains balanced by avoiding products that will strip the natural oil/water barrier, many of these sensitivities disappear. (Please note I am not talking about rosacea or other skin disorders) Remember: Sensitivity is usually a skin condition, NOT a skin type. Conditions can be corrected; you are born with a skin type.

Keeping your skin in check:

1. Avoid drying cleansers.
Most people cause many of the sensitivities on their skin by using the wrong cleanser. Check your product labels. Avoid Sulfates (especially if they are in the top third of the ingredient deck). Sulfates are strong detergents which in high amount strip too much of the natural oil off your skin. After you wash, your skin should feel like you could almost go without moisturizer. If you are running to slather on the cream to avoid exposing bone and muscle that may appear should your skin peel back, change your cleanser.

2. If your skin is dehydrated: use a hydrating spray or water binding serum
Dehydration is the lack of water on the skin. Check yourself in the mirror. If you stretch your skin and it looks like crepe paper, or you notice a lot of vertical fine lines, you are dehydrated. Look for products with D2O (Heavy Water), hyaluronic acid, L-sodium PCA or other water binders.

3. If your skin is dry: use a moisturizer with natural moisturizing factors and lipids (oils) recognized by the skin.
Dry skin is the lack of oil. If you have switched cleansers, to one without harsh detergents, and you skin is still dry, you may need to replace the lipids (oils/sebum) that your skin is not naturally producing. Look for products with ingredients like shea butter, jojoba oil, and Liquid Crystals (yes, they are not just for your TV!). These ingredients mimic the natural oils found on your skin and will help to lubricate and protect.
Avoid products that contain mineral oils and petroleum-based ingredients. Although these ingredients do not physically clog the skin, they form a barrier on the skin which does not allow the natural sebum produced in the pore to reach the surface resulting in clogged pores, acne, etc. These products are helpful if you skin is chapped, or abraded. The barrier will prevent any other irritants from reaching the healing tissue and allow for quicker repair. Once the skin is no longer irritated, discontinue use and return to a moisturizer which does not contain petroleum ingredients.

3. Don't over exfoliate.
Our skin is only 0.5mm to 1.5mm thick. There is no reason to blast it daily with harsh scrubs or strong glycolic acids. Over-exfoliation can lead to dehydration on the skin, which in turn can lead to sensitivities. Use enzymes for the gentlest exfoliation. If your skin needs an added boost go for lactic acid which is recognized naturally by our bodies or retinaldehyde which actually can help to thicken the dermal (living) layer of the skin!

4. Avoid extremely hot water.
Hot water strips the skin of its natural oil. 'Nuff said.

5. Wear Sunscreen.
The sun not only is extremely dehydrating but it also weakens the skin and leaves it more susceptible to sensitivities, skin cancer, broken capillaries, etc. It also is the cause for 90% of all aging, so slather it on early and often!!

So, don't fret the next time your skin gets a little red, itchy or flaky. Take a step back and look at how you have been treating your skin lately. Is it really sensitive or have you been abusing it? Chances are you, yourself are your skin worst enemy!

Until next time!!

If you have any suggestions or comments about this or ideas for another post let me know!!