I'm so Sensitive

I thought I would start my blogging career off by addressing one of the concerns almost everyone who works in the skin care field has heard about a billion times: Sensitive Skin.

Watch your esthetitican the next time you utter these words,
"I have sensitive skin."
Chances are that your esthetician will be fighting the urge to roll her eyes or take a massive sigh. (But not me... I'm an educator.)

The reason: Very few people actually have sensitive skin.


"But my skin gets red, itchy, flaky, etc. when I use glycolic, salicylic, (insert your ingredient or product here)."


Now I am not saying that you cannot be sensitive TO a certain product or ingredient, but the actual number of people with truly sensitive skin in rather small. Instead of treating our skin like a hormonal teenager which erupts in every situation like Mount St. Helens, lets look at it like my Dad (stay with me here).

My Dad has an abnormally long fuse. Seriously, it takes a lot to get him angry. When he was teaching me how to drive, I almost ran our car into a baseball field and he didn't get upset, only a little annoyed at my lack of driving skills. However, when he reaches his breaking point you know it. His face gets really red and steam starts to come out of his ears (I really think I saw it once!).

Our skin is the same way (minus the steam). It is constantly bombarded with heat, cold, dry air, humidity, medications, etc. All these factors cause our skin to fall out of it's natural balance state and become dry or dehydrated (or both). Top this already stressed skin with a product that may be too exfoliating or too active and... BAM! Redness, flakiness, irritation and inflammation.

If we take a step back and properly care for our skin so that it remains balanced by avoiding products that will strip the natural oil/water barrier, many of these sensitivities disappear. (Please note I am not talking about rosacea or other skin disorders) Remember: Sensitivity is usually a skin condition, NOT a skin type. Conditions can be corrected; you are born with a skin type.

Keeping your skin in check:

1. Avoid drying cleansers.
Most people cause many of the sensitivities on their skin by using the wrong cleanser. Check your product labels. Avoid Sulfates (especially if they are in the top third of the ingredient deck). Sulfates are strong detergents which in high amount strip too much of the natural oil off your skin. After you wash, your skin should feel like you could almost go without moisturizer. If you are running to slather on the cream to avoid exposing bone and muscle that may appear should your skin peel back, change your cleanser.

2. If your skin is dehydrated: use a hydrating spray or water binding serum
Dehydration is the lack of water on the skin. Check yourself in the mirror. If you stretch your skin and it looks like crepe paper, or you notice a lot of vertical fine lines, you are dehydrated. Look for products with D2O (Heavy Water), hyaluronic acid, L-sodium PCA or other water binders.

3. If your skin is dry: use a moisturizer with natural moisturizing factors and lipids (oils) recognized by the skin.
Dry skin is the lack of oil. If you have switched cleansers, to one without harsh detergents, and you skin is still dry, you may need to replace the lipids (oils/sebum) that your skin is not naturally producing. Look for products with ingredients like shea butter, jojoba oil, and Liquid Crystals (yes, they are not just for your TV!). These ingredients mimic the natural oils found on your skin and will help to lubricate and protect.
Avoid products that contain mineral oils and petroleum-based ingredients. Although these ingredients do not physically clog the skin, they form a barrier on the skin which does not allow the natural sebum produced in the pore to reach the surface resulting in clogged pores, acne, etc. These products are helpful if you skin is chapped, or abraded. The barrier will prevent any other irritants from reaching the healing tissue and allow for quicker repair. Once the skin is no longer irritated, discontinue use and return to a moisturizer which does not contain petroleum ingredients.

3. Don't over exfoliate.
Our skin is only 0.5mm to 1.5mm thick. There is no reason to blast it daily with harsh scrubs or strong glycolic acids. Over-exfoliation can lead to dehydration on the skin, which in turn can lead to sensitivities. Use enzymes for the gentlest exfoliation. If your skin needs an added boost go for lactic acid which is recognized naturally by our bodies or retinaldehyde which actually can help to thicken the dermal (living) layer of the skin!

4. Avoid extremely hot water.
Hot water strips the skin of its natural oil. 'Nuff said.

5. Wear Sunscreen.
The sun not only is extremely dehydrating but it also weakens the skin and leaves it more susceptible to sensitivities, skin cancer, broken capillaries, etc. It also is the cause for 90% of all aging, so slather it on early and often!!

So, don't fret the next time your skin gets a little red, itchy or flaky. Take a step back and look at how you have been treating your skin lately. Is it really sensitive or have you been abusing it? Chances are you, yourself are your skin worst enemy!

Until next time!!

If you have any suggestions or comments about this or ideas for another post let me know!!